I’m a big wave surfer. So in my world, I have to accept the inevidabilty of fear whether I want to admit to it or not.
Today I got a message that tried to knock me down a peg, I was referred to as joke. I usually would just shrug things off like this, delete the comment, and ignore the person, or whatever… but I felt inclined to give this message some special attention. Let me just add I rarely ever get negative comments aimed at me, but now that I’ve extended myself into the web world, all kinds of things get said.
When I do hear negative comments aimed at me like this, by someone who probably has no merit nonetheless, it doesn’t make me want to quit what I do. Surfing is something I will always love and always share with others and there is not a comment anyone can say to me to ever change that. Down talk instead drives me to get tougher, go even bigger, and share surfing with people who need it the most.
Surfing isn’t about being the best, dominating the lineup, competing with your competitors, or riding the way society thinks you ought to. Surfing’s purpose is joy, pure joy, and anything else is irrelevant. When you connect with the natural movement of a wave and are able to ride it with only a feeling of joy, then you are achieving surfing’s special gift to mankind, which is healing.
Here is a photo of a student I had the honor to play in the ocean with. Seeing this student and her laughs and smiles on the waves she rode brought me such an intense feeling of happiness. I was so excited for her that she was able to get an opportunity to experience the true purpose of surfing, fun!
As the time is very near for me to embark, lots of fears surface within me as I pack all of my belongings into a suitcase to travel 5000 miles overseas. Truth is, I hate traveling on a plane. But for the prized reward, I’ll risk everything to get there.
Exciting part about my upcoming trip back to Hawaii is the changes in my life that have and are taking place. I’ll get to experience a new home, new job, new friends, and new adventures. I see bigger waves being ridden, and hopefully there’s someone around to capture those moments. Most of the time I’m just way way out there with nobody in sight.